DFS-R Replication Efficiency

Replicating a large file store – 850 odd Gig. Due to conflict issues, running the secondary site replicated but with no referrals. I’ll enable it if the primary has a failure. Anyway –

Replicated Folder

Total Size of Data If Received Without DFS Replication

Actual Data Received Across the Network Using DFS Replication

 DFS Replication Efficiency Savings
Department$ 869.94 GB 251.07 GB 71.14%

Thats a reduction of 618Gig for FIRST TIME ONE WAY replication. It can only get better from here with partial change replication.

(Although I do have questions about .pst files – testing required here)

These numbers are from the DFSR utilities, I’ll have to assume it’s telling the truth. You do have to run Enterprise Edition on your file servers to get the full benefit (more details another day).

Review – Logitech V270 Bluetooth Notebook Mouse & IBM T40p

  1. It works
  2. Nice Size / shape
  3. Heavier than corded notebook mice due to batteries. Recommend Lithium’s to reduce this.
  4. Battery Life – 3 to 6 mths depending on use
  5. Little fussy about surfaces – doesn’t like gloss – more fussy than MS USB optical mice.
  6. No dongle is nice – Bluetooth straight to laptop
  7. Includes batteries and soft case
  8. Could be smaller / lighter, but quite acceptable.
  9. Have to remember to switch off before putting in bag
  10. Runs fine on one battery if you want to reduce weight

How to Block your Corporate Wallpaper in Windows

If you have a corporate wallpaper pushed to your desktop / laptop, chances are it’s being done with Windows Group Policy. It’s likely this is a PR rather than IT initiative, IT being there to service rather than brand the customer.

You can override this wallpaper with some local settings, although this *may* have impacts down the track where other settings are also blocked. This may or may not be a bad thing, depending on your perspective. It will definitely mean that IT won’t be happy as your PC is no longer standard and may not behave as they expect. This isn’t really a big stress, as with the advent of the Internet and web applications, no machine is the same as another anymore, despite opinions to the contrary. Your mileage may vary.

You need to have local administrative rights to make these changes. You may be this already, many laptop users are due to deficiencies in XP. Vista users are less likely to be local admin, as the newer design doesn’t require admin rights as frequently. To test if you are a local admin, try the below steps, if it denies you access, you need to escalate your privileges. Your friendly IT staff member may do this by adding your user account the the local pc administrators group, or alternately you can look at escalation of privilege attacks on the system. It is preferable not to be an administrator all the time, as the computer is MUCH more vulnerable to being attacked if you log on with Administrative access.

There is another way to gain administrative access. Every computer has a default Administrator account. Normally it’s named “Administrator”, but many companies to rename it. If you can get he password for this account, you can logon with it, and do what you want.
If you can’t get the password a nice utility from Peter Nordahl called NT Password Reset Disk will reset the password for the Administrator account, renamed or not. There is some risk with using this tool, but it still worked on NT/2K/XP/Vista including SP1 when I use it. You break your PC, you get to explain to IT  what happened.

Once you have admin access you need to open a Registry Editor

Check the account you are logged on with is a member of the group “Administrators”This is found under
My Computer
(Right Click)
ManageAlso check if the account “Administrator” has been renamed.		 image
Start | Run | Regedt32  
Navigate to:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software
\Microsoft\Windows
\CurrentVersion\Policies\System		 image
Right click “system” in the LHS pane and select “Permissions” image
Click the “Advanced” Button image
Untick “Include Inheritable Permissions from the Objects Parent”And select “Copy” existing permissions when prompted image
Add “Full Control” to your user accountRemove “Full Control” from “System” and “Administrators” – leave “Read”. image
You can now set the wallpaper path in the registry to whatever wallpaper you prefer.
The key “Wallpaper” contains the path.

If you delete the 2 “wallpaper” keys, then you will have access to set your wallpaper in windows as normal.

 image
WallpaperStyle settings are as follows 0 Centered
1 Tiled
2 Stretchedas per MS

Presto – you now own your wallpaper again. You still can’t set it from the usual “Right Click” – select, but changing the path above isn’t too difficult.

The other options you have as workarounds against wallpaper policies depend on where the wallpaper file comes from.

If the file is stored locally on your PC, you can simply replace the file with something else with the same name, and change the permissions to stop it being over-written.

If it’s on the network, if you boot up disconnected, you won’t get the wallpaper.

Happy playing.
And remember, don’t trust anything you read on the Internet, we are all evil hackers out to get you. Now can I have your c/c details please?

Wireless Mesh (or Mish Mash)

Google for Wireless Mesh and I’ll see you on the other side. These document authors REALLY need to look a the OSI Model and work out the difference between Layer 2 and Layer 3 technologies. Anyway – I highly recommend you read http://www.proxim.com/learn/library/whitepapers/mesh_primer_PP3-1005.pdf if you have an interest in setting up a Wireless Mesh. My definition of this is a number of Access Points covering an area that are NOT connected by Cat 5 to a backbone, but rather a multi-hop wireless, IN A SINGLE SUBNET. Proxim seems to be one of the few with a clue. Implementing solution atm – will advise results.

DLink DWL-2100 AP Review

1. Nice AP for the price – not much else out there to compete

2. We have about 50 – expect a 20% failure rate / year. They do NOT like the sun, very heat sensitive (even in aircon room)

3. They have major issues talking to IBM Gigabit Ethernet. Took me AGES to track this down. They will respond (ping, HTTP), but will NOT pass from the Ethernet to the Wireless interface if you are using an IBM Laptop or PC with Gigabit interface (running on a 100MBit switch). Yeah, I tried cables, switches, different PC. Same results. Talk to it, not through it.

4. When in AP Client mode they are REALLY REALLY crap. They translate the MAC Address of the host to their MAC. 3 hosts behind – all appear to have the same MAC to the server. The AP is supposed to sort out this shamozzzle when the packets return – guess what – they can’t. 50% of data packets it drops is bundle and you can’t talk. Another mongrel to diagnose, I love sniffers. Client side looks like packet drop. Server side looks fine – till you check the ARP table. Symptoms are 3 PC’s behind 2100 configured as AP Client. All 3 will get IP’s thru DHCP no problems with correct MAC addresses in DHCP server (only translates some packets obviously). Try doing stuff – each host will work then drop out in turn depending on who is sending what. Looks like the 2100 has limited buffers and can’t cope.

Adventures in DFS-R Land

If you are installing DFS-R and see

“Event ID 6402”
The DFS Replication service failed to initialize replicated folder D:\Deployments\Install because the service detected that one of its private folders overlaps with an existing File Replication service (FRS) replica set. This is an unsupported configuration.

or
Event ID 6002
The DFS Replication service detected invalid msDFSR-Subscriber object data while polling for configuration information.

Then you need to make friends with ADSI Edit.
Mine was due to a badly removed FRS structure after I broke the root upgrading to Enterprise Edition (really wanted the extra savings on replication)

Under the Server Container for your server you’ll find the records for the old FRS replication that is conflicting – delete the references for all members (yeah – even DC’s, the DC records are housed elsewhere) and Bob’s your uncle. They are GUID looking thingies here.

GFI Network Server Monitor Licencing Lunacy

I like GFI – they make great products that fit mid tier companies (100 – 5000) perfectly, and they do it with better Microsoft integration than most – even better than MS themselves sometimes. BUT – this time they have stuffed up.

Network Server Monitor 7 – great product, doesn’t crash like 6.0. Price – you have to be kidding me – $1500 / 50 machines, no unlimted licences. That’s $1500 for 50 ping checks!!!!! Now I’ll pay $1500 for T/S logon checks, disk space, exchange services, HTTP file access, SQL queries etc etc etc. But for pinging my 120 switches – no way. For the $7000 bill total I’ll buy HP Openview. Sheesh.

BTW: 6.0 – Ping checks were FREE, and they had an “unlimited” licence.

Patrol Tank in a Surf


Surf

Sick of the pathetic fuel range in your Surf? I get around 400km to the standard tank with the 1KZTE 3L Turbo Diesel. 450 on the highway, 250 towing a car trailer. After following mates that get over twice that (I hate Land Rovers), I decided to fix the problem. I think it was Toyota’s decision to give the new Prado (same engine) a massive 180 litres, compared to my 55 litres that finally clenched it.

The mega $$$ for the aftermarket tanks was out of the question, although their capacity is definitely excellent. I had seen a guy with a patrol tank in before, and it seemed to fit well. He had a filler under the wheel arch, a solution I found unacceptable. So a sat down and figured out how to make this all work, without a body lift.

Warning

Note: Fitting an additional fuel tank may:

  • void your 2nd hand warranty (it’s not worth crap anyway)
  • void your insurance
  • leave you legally liable
  • make your vehicle unroadworthy
  • make your vehicle unsafe
  • be illegal
  • sag your rear suspension
  • affect your vehicles handling
  • be a fire hazard
  • explode

So, if any of the above happens, or anything else happens due to this information, tough luck. It worked for me, but may not for you. Maybe I got lucky, maybe this is the Internet and I am lying to you, maybe I want to blow up all Surfs, maybe I am smarter than you, maybe it’s all an evil terrorist plot (and another place to hide weapons of mass destruction). So, you do it, your problem. All liability absolved. Lawyer types will disagree I am sure, but it will do for you and me.

Click here to leave this corrupt and decadent western imperialist travesty of a site

I decided to follow the Landcruisers that I had dealt with previously and run dual tanks with a changeover switch between them. The option of a pump though system that filled the primary tank occurred, and the pro’s and cons are listed below.

  Pros Cons

Dual Tank

  • Totally Separate Systems if fuel is dirty or tank damaged

  • Single Gauge shows current tank

  • No transfer time

    		•

  • Have to leave fuel in both tanks

  • Low levels can be problem on steep hills (fuel flows away from pickup)

  • More pipework and valves

  • Have to buy valves

    		•

    Pump Through

  • Can fully empty second tank

  • Less problems on steep hills with low levels in both tanks

  • Simpler piping

    		•

  • No gauge on second tank

  • Have to transfer fuel and monitor pump

  • Significant transfer time

  • Have to buy a fuel pump

    		•
    • Parts Req’d
    • GQ Patrol / Maverick Wagon Fuel Tank (complete with pickup) ($90 from wreckers)
    • 1.2M x” Filler Hose (Hydraulic Suction Hose was cheapest)
    • 1.5M x” Filler Overflow Hose
    • 3M x” Fuel Supply Hose
    • 3M x” Fuel Return Hose
    • 2 x Landcruiser changeover valves (80 Series GXL Diesel) ($50 from wreckers)
    • Mounting Hardware – Nuts, Bolts, Washers, Locktite, Rubber
    • 45? filler bend (x” Exhaust pipe)
    • 120? filler bend (x” Exhaust pipe)
    • 300mm Exhaust Pipe
    • Hose Clamps (Various)
    • Wiring, Switches etc.

    The patrol diesel tanks do not have an in tank pump, as they are suction from the injector pump on the engine. The surf is the same. If you want to do a transfer system you will need either an external pump, or a different pickup.

    The hose lengths above are for an install the same as mine. If you choose to different valves, mount them elsewhere, do a pump through setup, etc, etc, you will need different quantities. I chose the cheapest fuel hose I could get, and used hydraulic / fuel suction hose for the filler. It was actually cheaper than radiator hose, and much better rated. It has a large spiral wire inside, so be careful when cutting it. This also makes fitting it onto larger / smaller hoses quite difficult. To fit it to larger hose, lubricate well with oil and push hard whilst rotating it. It will expand slowly and go over. Use only good quality hose clamps to compress the hose. Good quality hose clamps are sturdy stainless, and have large indentations for the thread, not holes in the strip.

    The changeover valves are quite difficult to remove from the Landcruiser. The wrecker won’t like you very much after this. They are in the rear up above the rear axle. I don’t recommend doing it yourself.

    Costs

    • Tank – $90
    • Hoses & Clamps – $120
    • Valves – $50
    • Misc – $50
    • Exhaust – $50
    • Compliance – $75
    • Total $435

    Step 1: Line it up.

    Two people make this MUCH easier.

    Note the fuel stain. I thought this was from a leaking drain bung. Big mistake. Turns out the spot welds for the internal baffles have started to crack. It’s very small. but enough to leak. Bugger.

    Alignment

    Step 2: Trim Exhaust and Chassis

    Not as scary as it looks. This allows the sender and pickup to sit up in the chassis and give about 1″ more clearance under the tank. If it bothers you too much give it a miss. I preferred the clearance, and just rust proofed the cuts well. I actully didn’t have to trim this much, but it doesn’t really matter. Structural strength is no different as the towbar is much stronger than this stiffener.

    Most exhausts will be in the same place as the tank. Time to move it.

    Exhaust1

    Exhaust pic with tank in place

    Exhaust2

    Step 3: New Exhaust

    I took the Surf and tank to the local exhaust guy (Ian Diffen) and had him make up a new rear section. I requested mandrels due to the tight bends required, although the rest of the system is just press bend. 90? and over flow better if they are mandrel due to much less compression of the pipe. Under 90? will cope. He had to trim the mudflap to get it where I wanted it, but it clears the tank well. It is actually a tad close to the wheel, but doesn’t touch, so it will be fine.

    Note: It makes using the LHS tow point difficult. You may want to work it a little different to allow for that.

    NewExhaust

    Step 4: Modify Tank

    Using object of choice (I like a rubber mallet) and a friend, fit the tank where it will mount and find out the high spots that will touch, then lower them 🙂
    A bit of judicious thumping at this point gives another 15 – 20mm clearance under the tank. Also give the filler a good touch up till it is more horizontal, rather than the 45? it normally sits at.

    Modified

    Step 5: Front Mounts

    I used heavy threaded rod for these. It doesn’t provide a huge amount of lateral strength, although more than I would credit after lining it all up. I used Locktite on all nuts, although NyLocks would be as good. Definitely use some retaining method, as fixing it later could be difficult. The threaded rod was just drilled through the flange in the rear cross member.

    Hints:
    1. Line it all up well before drilling
    2. The rod is different lengths
    3. Stay out on the flange, otherwise nuts won’t fit as they hit the cross-member.
    4. Yes I had to bend them once they were in, the flange is not horizontal.

    FrontMounts

    Step 6: Weld in rear mount bar

    I welded the rear mount to my towbar. Don’t have one, you’ll just have to figure out something else. I’d recommend fitting a towbar to help protect the tank.

    Welding

    Step 7: Rear Mounts

    Three high tensile bolts in the rear with rubber to allow a little flex. (Yes it is the old timing belt)
    These also provide most of the lateral support.
    If I was doing it again, I wouldn’t trust my welding and would have bolted this support bar in. Butt welds have a habit of cracking as the chassis flexes. I am still considering options for this, but it seems to be ok for the moment.

    Will update if it falls out 🙂

    RearMounts

    Pic of both front and rear mounts

    BothMounts

    Step 8: Mount Tank

    Curse and swear till the tank is mounted in place. Definitely another two person job.

    Hints:

    • Use 2 people
    • Use Locktite or Nylock nuts
    • Connect supply and return hoses before mounting
    • Connect wiring for sender before mounting
    • Block off vent hose as tank will be vented through filler to other tank and it’s emissions system.

    DiagonalView2

    Pic of installed with hoses attached.

    The clear hose for the diff breather you can see is just temporarily tucked out of the way.

    FillerFitting

    Step 9: Filler Hose fitting

    I used a 45? piece of exhaust press bend to assist in this spot. I tried without it and it was just about impossible. It’s still not easy. You’ll need to lubricate the fitting on the tank. The pipe has wire inside, so persist, it will go on. As you wriggle it, the wire moves round till it fits. Make sure it is well on, as there will be flex, and this may pull the hose off if it is not well attached. Persistence will pay off.

    The filler line runs forward and just fits between chassis and body in the triangular gap at the edge. I moved the wires for the suspension that run through the same gap more to the centre so they didn’t fowl the hose. The hose will get some abuse as the body and chassis flexes, but it is very tough, and should last the life of the car. There is no sharp edges through the gap.

    FillerBend

    Step 10: Modified Filler

    I stole this idea off another Surf member who had similar under his. <insert link here>

    Mine is a little different, as I don’t have the body lift, clearance is an issue. I came out at 30? with a piece of exhaust pipe, and them chopped and welded it parallel to the current filler. I also drilled and welded the filler cutout pipe.

    I tried using the 80 series tricky changeover valve system, however there was no way to make the cast valve assembly fit. Even with alloy welding and machining it would be quite difficult. This fits, although it is quite tight.

    The new filler fills the original tank, with the factory filler going to the new rear tank.

    ModifiedFiller1

    Another filler pic.

    ModifiedFiller2

    Step 11: Connect the Filler Hoses

    This is a very difficult job. Be prepared to swear. There is a 120? elbow under the red circle to get around the tight bend. Take your time, it will work. I had to stretch a few things, and it was a bugger to re-bolt, but it will work. There is virtually no clearance so it is very tight work. It would be Much easier with a body lift.

    The extra clear hose is my rear diff breather.

    Hints: “Tap” the lip on the body away a little to give more clearance. I found a large flat screwdriver and a hammer made a large difference. The sharp edge of the body is a lot less of a problem when folded flat. You won’t get it all, but the bit to the rear near the elbow will definitely move. Means that you can get to the hose clamp on the elbow.

    Make sure this hose clamp is on properly, it’s hard to tell. Otherwise when you go to fill the tank, it’ll pour fuel everywhere. Been there, done that.

    FillerthruChassis

    Step 12: Changeover valves

    The valves that come from the cruiser are a nice 3 port type, with 2 inputs and a common output.

    They are a slightly larger fitting than any of the other pipework. I ended up using a little oil on the hoses, and heating them up with a hot air gun to get them to fit. This was after much swearing. A diesel doesn’t care about a little oil in the hoses.

    Hints:

    • Connect wires before mounting
    • Lubricate and heat hoses. Careful using too much force as valves are plastic.
    • Be careful that hoses, valves and wires will not fowl on suspension, diff or brakes.
    • Diff will only go up so far, look at you bump stops to get an idea.
    • Check which ports are what on the vales first. There is 2 inputs and a common output. Connect the wires across a 12V battery or charger to actuate the unit. I used unpowered from the original tank, and powered for the new supply.

    Valves1

    Another hose & valve pic

    I spent ages working out where to mount the valves so they would fit, not be near the exhaust, not fowl the suspension, not go though the floor. I ended up mounting one from the front lip of the rear cross-member. The return valve was mounted to the front lip of the tank with it’s bracket inverted.

    Valves4

    And another

    Valves5

    Step 13: Connect Hoses

    This is where the factory hoses fit on. Send the original tank lines back to the changeover valves. Connect your new lines here.

    Hint: Use the factory springy hose clamps on the fuel tank as there is no way to get a screwdriver in to tighten normal ones.

    You may have to prime the lines, but mine did it itself. Make sure that you put fuel in the second tank before trying to run on it. If you suck the system dry, you will have to prime it all again, and that’s not fun.

    FuelLines

    Clearance

    Rear View

    I think the clearance is quite reasonable, up to your personal opinion.

    We took it out to some pretty rough terrain and it was nowhere near to rubbing the ground.

    I would like a bash plate under it though. Not too heavy, just something to adsorb any pointy rocks I may come down on or rub over. Similar to the factory fuel tank protector would be fine. I’ll keep looking.

    RearClearance

    RHS View

    RearClearanceRHS

    LHS View

    RearClearanceLHS

    Results

    • Filled it with approx 80 litres of diesel, gives about 75L useable. I’ll confirm when I have a gauge and it stops leaking.
    • No gauge, but it was still going at 500KM
    • I estimate range will be 1000km now or more with both tanks full
    • When it’s empty you don’t know it’s there
    • Full, it lowers the back of the car a bit. Mine sits slightly high in the rear unloaded, and slightly low loaded for camping. That is with H/D Kings in the rear. Now when I fill the tank, it sits as if it had a full load on board. I would NOT recommend fitting this with standard springs. Full tank and full load was still quite reasonable rear ride height, just slightly below neutral.
    • Handling is virtually no different, full or empty. Little heavy in the rear like a full camping load.

    Comments

    • These tanks have a bash plate on them in the Patrol. Mine didn’t for some reason. I’ll have to get one.
    • I’d normally leave it nearly empty as it is more weight to cart around, this will impact fuel economy, tyre wear, handling etc.
    • You obviously can’t mount another spare tyre under there
    • The after market tank with 120L would be nice, gives more useable than this one does. Weight and cost a lot more though.
    • The after market 110L replacement tank would be better, but is a lot more money, and give less range than this. It is really only an additional 55L on top of factory, where I now have 80L. Ideal placement for additional tanks is between the axles though. Out on the overhangs is a bad place to put weight as it de-stabilises the car. Tanks, bullbars, winches, water, batteries are the heaviest, and always end up out on the overhangs, a really bad combination. Try and minimise this where possible. Store water and jerry cans in the rear footwell for example, it’s central and low.
    • I’d use the rear tank up first when going off-road, so as to take weight out of the rear. This will lift the rear a little, and improve weight distribution.