Information Security Considerations for Investors pt.1

This is some general notes and a suggested checklist on Information Security and Privacy as they relate to financial information you as an investor, should consider. It came from a general discussion between investors about “How much of your financial information do you allow on the cloud”

TL;DR

  • Require 2FA on your Bank and eMail accounts
  • Use a Password Manager tool, follow the recommendations

Background. 
Data that is truly secure is data that is inaccessible to anyone, you included. The internet is all about accessing information easily.  You may notice these things are opposites.

You can of course go far more extreme and attempt to keep your finances offline entirely, this is however exchanging one set of risks for another. 

Your financial information is stored in many places. Keeping that information private is an exercise in risk management, not risk elimination.

Your information is not totally private today. Large retail conglomerates already know much about you and track you between their stores. 


Who has copies of at least some of your financial records / behaviors today –

  • Retailers – anywhere you shop
  • Bank / Credit Card companies
  • Govt Tax Office
  • Employer
  • Brokers / Agents / Where-ever they store their data and backups
  • Accountants / Lawyers / Where-ever they store their data and backups
  • Lands Offices / Local Government
  • Property Information Companies
  • Utilities – Water, Electricity, Council etc.
  • Loyalty cards / Frequent Flyer programs
  • Google / Facebook
  • Financial aggregators

This is mostly thinking about how to 
a) Keep your financial accounts from being misused
b) Keep some information moderately confidential. 

This is not about identity theft, which is a larger more complex topic. 


Financial Account Access

If it is important – then a password alone is insufficient protection. 
You MUST have 2FA (Two Factor Authentication) on these accounts at a minimum. 

  • Banking / Brokerage
  • email address used for Banking or Banking Recovery
  • Google or Apple account for your Phone
  • Cloud storage used for financial records / data
  • Password Manager – Lastpass, Onepass etc.

Many products rely on your primary email address to contact you for password resets. This means if your mailbox is compromised, someone could reset your financial passwords. This is why 2FA is needed on the email account you use for this function. 

The problem with 2FA is it works. Recovery from losing your token can be difficult or even impossible. Sorry, security nearly always makes things harder for everyone, attackers and users. 

I would recommend planning for account recovery before you need it. It’s much more difficult after things have gone wrong. This will also show you where you might have weaknesses. 

AccountPassword
Recovery
2FA Auth2FA
Recovery
Method
emailme@somewhere.comGoogle Authenticator
bank 1me@somewhere.comYubiKey TokenContact Bank

This space is relatively new and still developing. 
If you have no choice other than a password, follow these rules

  • Use a random password generator w/ >16 characters
  • Use a password manager tool
  • Use a separate password for each application / website

If you have an option to turn on alerts for transactions / logins, so you get and SMS or email, this can help to reduce fraud. 
Consider all places where you have things of financial value or credit stored, including Frequent Flyer accounts, Superannuation etc. 

Stored Data

Nothing can be kept entirely confidential.If it’s connected to any network, at any time, it is at risk. 

I do not consider “the cloud” to be of significantly different overall risk than any other data. Whilst some risk areas are increased, others are decreased, resulting in a net overall equal or potentially reduced net risk. 

The largest risk driver I see today is not location of storage, but ease of connectivity. If data is more accessible to you, then it is likely more accessible to bad guys. If you take lots of backups to prevent data loss, those extra copies increase the likely hood of someone accessing your information. 
If you do the following steps, you will reduce your overall net risk. Every action you take introduces potential new risks, the trick is to reduce overall exposure. 
You should – 

  • PC / Mac
    • Run the Latest Operating System, All patches and Updates. Don’t be cheap here. 
    • 3rd Party Anti-malware / security tools are not recommended – stick with the builtin tools from your OS vendor. 
    • Encrypt your Backups. Be careful where you store the key.
    • Encrypt your Computer. Be careful where you store the key.
    • Be careful with storing data on USB disks
  • Cloud storage is generally as secure as the account used to access it
    • Use 2FA and strong passwords
    • Use a separate password for every website
    • Use a password manager tool
    • Use well known providers and stay aware of risks
    • Read up on the vendors security options
  • Phone / Tablet devices are often quite secure from factory. For average users, Apple devices tend to be more secure than Android. 
    • Enable find my device
    • Enable backups

FYI – Bio-metrics are surprisingly insecure. They are not secret (eg. You leave your fingerprints everywhere. They cannot be changed when stolen (well, you will run out of fingers to cut off after 9). They work well only in very specific circumstances. Do not consider bio-metrics a replacement for passwords.
The reason bio-metrics are effective with your phone, is that the device is the second (2) factor authenicator. You cannot use your fingerprint with Apple, only with that device.

Maximising your Credit Card Interest Free period for Dummies

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Here I am, 30 something years old, and I only just now got around to really understanding how to optimize my credit card. (At least I hope I understand it now).

Now for those of you that don’t like reading, I’ll give you the short version.

TL:DR – You MUST pay off the “Closing Balance” as close to, but before the “Due Date” ON THAT STATEMENT – and you pay no interest.
Make no other payments.
Do NOT pay the “Outstanding Balance”.
That’s it, nothing else you need to know. Do that religiously, and you’ll maximize the interest free period.

I don’t think I’m that dumb. I use Mortgage Offset accounts and leveraging the interest free period on the c/c to maximize the amount of cash in the offset account.

I just never really sat down and thought about maximising the interest free period.
With interest calculated daily on most accounts, the more days you are using the bank’s money interest free, the more you save. BUT, and here is the gotcha – on most credit cards, if you are even one day late over the interest free period, you lose. They backdate the interest for the entire period. Just to make things worse, many (but not all), don’t give interest free on any further purchases until the closing balance has been paid. Note, this is NOT the “Minimum Payment“, OR the current “Outstanding Balance“. Ignore the minimum balance unless you are stretched that month – and it will cost you big time if you only pay the minimum, with all the interest free benefit wiped out.

The first thing you need to know. A Credit Card is not a continuously rolling credit account. If you think of it this way (as I used to) you’ll never get straight in your head.
A credit card is a continuous series of  One Month windows noted as “Statement Period” written on the statement.
Everything you spend on the account in this Statement Period gets totaled up at the end of the period and put on the statement as the “Closing Balance”. You have “x” days  to pay that Closing Balance. This date is calculated for you and put on the statement as the “Due Date”. In my case it’s 55 days from the START of the Statement Period. This is why the interest free period is described as “Up To 55 Days Interest Free”. If you make a purchase on the first day of the statement period, you’ll get 55 days (until the Due Date) to pay it off without being charged interest. If you make it on the last day of the statement period (generally 30 days later), you’ll only only get 25 days until the Due Date, before you cop interest.

The Due Date is always before the close of the next statement period, this ensures that if it’s not paid off in full, whatever remains gets tacked onto the next Closing Balance.

The next Statement Period is INDEPENDENT and has nothing to do with the previous period. It accrues on it’s own, and has it’s own closing balance and due date. The only relationship is if you don’t pay off the previous closing balance, then things roll over and impact the interest free deal.

I find that the statement information is not available on my bank’s Internet banking site. I have to look at the paper statement to find the Statement Period, Closing Balance and Due Date.

For me, the confusion came around the current “Outstanding Balance”. Most people are concerned about keeping this under the Credit Limit to ensure we don’t get charged fees for exceeding the limit. For the purposes of maximising interest free periods, the Outstanding Balance is nothing more than a distraction. It is a combination of last months Closing Balance, and whatever you have spent this month. It is NOT what has to be paid off. If you instead concentrate on the Closing Balance, you’ll be FAR better off. The only thing the “Outstanding Balance” matters for, is ensuring you don’t exceed the credit limit and incur fees. Indeed I have found that by only paying off the Closing Balance, my card now has a much higher average amount outstanding than before, whilst still not incurring interest. This means the cash that would have been sitting on the card, is now sitting in my offset account for longer. It also means I am considering upgrading my limit to support this higher Outstanding Balance. The monthly spend is still the same, in and out. It’s just that I’m only paying off what I have to, when I have to, not the entire balance.

A complication comes around when the Closing Balance is only partially paid off before the Due Date. When this happens, interest is charged on the outstanding amount. The calculation is done on a First In, First Out basis, and I’m glad it’s computer doing the numbers. You lose in a number of ways in this case. Any charges that were not paid off (earliest charges paid off first), accrue the full interest from their “Date Processed” – this is often after the “Transaction Date”. Many cards also don’t give the future charges interest free status until the previous outstanding  balance has been paid off. (There is some debate on this point).
A further complication to the above is cash advances. The simplest answer on those is DON’T. They are not interest free. I only use Cash Advance overseas as I generally find the cash exchange rate with fees and Interest to still be better than “Money Exchange” facilities. If you must do this, make your CC have a positive balance before you travel. This will basically make it a Debit account, with less overseas fees.
This is why they use computers to calculate this stuff out.

The worst case of not paying off the Closing Balance in full is the “Low Interest” transfer type deals some card issuers offer. Say you transfer a variety of other cards onto a 0% interest deal. If you then proceed to use this card for other charges, under a First In, First Out basis, you won’t be paying off any of the new charges until the entire transferred balance is paid off. This makes any interest free period other than the transfer one, essentially ineffective. Low Interest transfer deals are valuable, only if you use them for just that, transfer. As soon as you use them as a normal credit card whilst there is a transfer amount outstanding, the bank starts winning back that interest from you.

Finally, Credit Card interest rates tend to approximately average double that of Home Loan interest rates in Australia. If you are using the card to assist your home loan repayments by increasing the average balance of your offset account, and you don’t pay the Closing Balance by the Due Date, you get charged interest at a much higher rate on the card. This means that the “effective savings” of the interest are wiped out for around twice as long as if the charges were straight on your offset account without the Credit Card. Result – one missed payment takes 2-3 months to re-coup the savings, just to get back to where you were.

All of which brings us right back to the simple statement – You MUST pay off the Closing Balance as close to, but before the Due Date ON THAT STATEMENT – and you pay no interest. Make no other payments. That’s it, nothing else you need to know. Do that religiously, and you can’t do any better.

The only circumstance where you should make a payment other than the Closing Balance, is when you need to put more charges on the card that month than the Credit Limit can cover, or if you need to cash advance overseas. Exceeding your Credit Limit will result in fees being charged. In this case an additional early payment may be necessary to keep the card under the limit, but you are losing some of the interest free benefits. This may be offset by some of the insurance benefits and loyalty points programs some card issuers have. eg. Free Travel Insurance, Extended Warranties, Frequent Flyer Points etc.
Keep in mind, this early payment simply goes onto the statement as well, and will be accrued and calculated in. The rule of “Pay off the Closing Balance by the Due Date” still applies.

So what from here – go and grab a statement. Find the following key information from all the junk they print on there – it’s how you save money:

  1. Statement Period (Open – Close)
  2. Closing Balance
  3. Due Date
  4. Credit Limit

Ignore the distractions from all the other numbers.

You may want to consider moving your Statement Period so the Due Date falls somewhere just after you get your salary paid into your account. This makes it easier to manage payments – you get paid, and you pay off the card.

A note on Auto Payments. I have never done these – so can’t thoroughly comment. It would be worth checking what Auto Payment system your bank uses, and when it Auto Pays. If it pays the “Outstanding Balance” rather than the “Closing Balance”, or if it pays off the the amount much before the “Due Date” – you are losing out, and the bank makes more money.

Please keep in mind I am not a financial advisor, or financial professional. All the above is gleaned from what information I can get from my bank in Australia, your’s may be different. I have not been able to find many explanations on the Internet elsewhere for what should be common knowledge, otherwise I wouldn’t have bothered to write it.

The Australian banks are definitely not in the business of explaining how their credit products work in simple terms, or how to optimise them for the customers benefit. If I have got any of the above wrong, or it could be done better, please comment and I’ll do my best to review and incorporate it.

NAB has a reasonable explanation of Credit Card interest.
Compared to the unintelligible NAB banker speak version.

ANZ also has a unintelligible version.

Here are some additional tips I received when a professional banking friend reviewed the above:

  1. If you pay via bpay – this payment takes 2 -3 days to reach the payee – so always process 3 business days before the payment is due – this goes with all bills you are paying this way – especially important if you are paying bills like rates and rego where you get a discount for being early.
  2. Most banks offer a free service where they will set up a direct debit to the credit cards for either, entire balance (to avoid paying interest), minimum amount (to avoid late fees), set amount (to fit your budget). This payment will always be made on the due date – you just need to make sure there is always enough money in the offset / credit account to cover. This way you never have to worry about missing a payment – NB, it may take a month for the payment to be established so watch the first payment.
  3. If paying via cheque the payment is not deemed as being made until the cheque has been cleared – normally 3 business days, so again pay 3 days prior to being due.
  4. Low interest rate balance transfers – don’t use the card until the transferred balance is cleared – I recommend doing the balance transfer, then once cleared cancel the card. The less cards you have to manage the better for your budget.
  5. If you are going to clear the credit card in full every month – look for maximum interest free days / lower annual fees, not the lowest interest rate (cause you wont be paying it) – which normally has the higher annual fee.
  6. If you have a home loan – ask for the annual fee on the card to be waived, this can be done about 75% of the time.
  7. NEVER set up direct debits from your credit card, eg pay TV, internet etc. A “stop” can not be put on a credit card to stop these payments, if you need them stopped. Even if credit card is closed, the payment will reopen the credit card (for 6 months after the closure). If you use a normal account, the payments can be stopped.

Brisbane Translink Go Card Charges in Pounds Sterling

Sheesh – at the exchange rate – no wonder public transport is expensive! Pounds Sterling – what next – Euro’s?

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This is of course on top of what would have to the  slowest proximity readers on the planet, displays that are impossible to read, an arcane array of “beep” codes, and an “Auto Top Up” function – that doesn’t.

Great system guys, matches your train network perfectly.

Beat the Boring Powerpoint

I have to sit through far too many piss-poor Powerpoint slide decks that just send the audience to sleep. Here are some examples of how to use Powerpoint properly.

Brilliant Video Session
http://www.ted.com/talks/view/id/187

Great tips from a  great presenter
http://blogs.technet.com/jesper_johansson/archive/2005/08/24/Death-by-PowerPoint.aspx

Advice from a specialist
http://www.presentationzen.com/presentationzen/2005/09/whats_good_powe.html

 

 

Youtube Car Crash Testing

I recently bought a new secondhand small Euro diesel car, and had numerous debates with several people re. its safety for my kids vs my large 4WD Toyota Landcruiser.

My approach was to get something 5 star rated, with curtain airbags. Head injuries from side impacts with 4wd’s being a known problem with small cars.

Here are some vids I found that were very enlightening.

Continue reading Youtube Car Crash Testing

My take on the 2007 Australian Federal Election

He’s dead. I’m fairly sure Howard died several years ago and it is his corpse they keep wheeling out just like Chairman Mao on display in Beijing.

I have huge respect for the man and what he has done. I don’t agree with all his policies, but I do respect that he makes a decision and sticks to his guns. There is nothing worse than civil servants that won’t make a decision. Procrastination never got anyone in government fired.

Unfortunately I think his environmental policies stink. Australia has an opportunity to be a world leader in several fields, and they are likely to just slip by. China is becoming more environmentally conscious than Australia. Their cars are more fuel efficient, they have electric vehicles everywhere, and are rolling out solar hot water like mad.

Our involvement in Iraq is just poor. We need to exit, and we need to do it now. Stick with Afghanistan as long as they need it, at least there is some justification. Invading foreign soil should have gone out with Gallipoli. it’s got me buggered why we got involved with the mess.

I firmly believe making the workplace more flexible makes employers more likely to take on staff. No smart company is going to fire valuable staff. It’s not “your job”, it’s “a job” and you happen to be doing it at the moment. If you do it well, you are valuable. If you do it poorly, you are a liability. If I own the company, the last thing I want is more liabilities. As an employee, if the relationship is not a good one, then sooner or later I’ll move on. Any company with high staff turnover will have trouble being profitable against the competition.

Apart from the first two glaring items, I reckon Howard has done a good job.

Now let’s move to Kevin Rudd. Against the guy personally, no comment. Against Labor – HUGE comment. The Labor party is the political arm of the unions. The thought of being forced to join and pay money to a group of thugs that want me to make less money than I do now makes me less than impressed.

The Union movement in Australia keeps ranting on about “the bosses” and “the workers”. I’ve never felt that way, not when I worked at Woolworth’s pushing trolleys, not when I worked for myself, not working for small companies and not when I work for big business. I have a boss, he has a boss, he has a boss and so on. We are all employed on our merits. Some companies reward effort and achievement, some reward ass kissing, some reward the old boys club. If I don’t l like the rewards, I find another job. This seems to be the major point that is missed. Liberal is all about the mobile workforce, where the skills go to whoever wants to offer them the best package. Labor is about the guy who gets and keeps “his job” and will use violence to stop “scab labor” doing it when he walks out because his useless mate got the sack for not doing his job either.  When it comes to promotion in a union shop it’s the old boys network all over. That’s the only union movement I know, and I don’t want a bar of it in my workplace.

So – how to vote? Voting for a minority results in little impact unless the Parliament is close to hung. Howard needs to deal with the big issues that many people believe he is ignoring. And Rudd works for thugs and scumbags.

I’m still thinking about it.

Emergency in Texas

A tragic flood this morning destroyed the personal library of President Bush. The flood began in the Presidential bathroom where the books were kept. Both books have been lost. A Presidential spokesman said the President was devastated, since he was almost finished coloring the second one.
The White House tried to call FEMA, but there was no answer.