I had been told a number of stories about the differences between different filters for my Landcruiser. As they were contradictory, the only way to get real answers was to open them up.
I have been doing a program of Laboratory Oil Analysis with Castrol in conjunction with this to obtain some definitive information. None of these filters have run longer than 5000KM.
All the filters are Dual Element types. They contain two filter elements. The first is a full flow element where all the oil from the pump to the engine MUST pass through it. This will catch anything that would cause immediate damage to the engine. There is also a secondary filter stage. The secondary filter is much finer that the primary filter and only scrubs a percentage of the oil each time. Over time this effectively scrubs all the oil to a very fine level. The secondary filter is often called a bypass filter, as in many systems the oil that goes through the secondary stage bypasses the engine and goes straight back to the sump. This is not the case with any of these where the oil from both filters continues on to the engine.
These filters also contain a drainback valve and a bypass valve. The drainback valve is designed to keep the filter full and reduce the time it takes for the engine to acheive oil pressure. The bypass valve is designed so that if the filter blocks to the point where it cannot flow enough oil for the engine, it will open and allow dirty oil to circulate, something that is far better than insufficient oil flow and pressure.
It is difficult to determine when a filter is "full", and I haven’t attempted to here. This fitler design makes it more difficult, as one element may be blocked, and the other still working correctly. There are tests you could devise, or through oil analysis. I have done neither at this point in time. I would however assume Toyota put a reasonable amount of time into determining the capacity of the filter vs the service intervals.
I have heard discussion of using a Z9 type single element filter on these engines. This would be a very bad idea. The Z9 single element has no secondary stage and would not scrub the oil, so over time the oil would become more and more contaminated, significantly reducing it’s lifespan, and the wear on the engine.
I have considered using an external bypass filter element to supplement these, however am reluctant to do so until:
a) I have more oil analysis data to show the benefit
b) I have information that shows they filter to a finer level, at the moment they simply appear to have a larger capacity
c) I have some method for determining if they are blocked or approaching capacity.
None of the filters below showed any obvious signs of clogging, material build up etc. Based on no other evidence than visual, I would say these filters are nowhere near capacity at 5000KM.
The genuine Toyota filter appeared to have better quality parts throughout.
Ryco
Ryco
Ryco
Nippon Max
Nippon Max
Nippon Max
Toyota Genuine
Toyota Genuine
Much much more material in the secondary stage.
Toyota Genuine
Appears to have much more complex pleats and larger surface area.
Hi Paul,
Came across your stuff through LCOOL. I have enjoyed your postings there for some time.
I found your oil analysis interesting – you have to prick your ears up when people use the word “interesting” – it usually means they didn’t like it, have a different view or had a negative experience, but that’s an aside, I genuinely found it interesting. Also your filter dissection and analysis is very good too. I note you express a concern that an auxillary bypass filter has issues for you, and it it this I wish to share my experiences about.
In 1985 I purchased a brand new a Daihatsu Rocky, 2.8 NA diesel. I used it mainly for highway work, but as I was working as a farm salesman needed a car with clearance and sometimes 4WD to get over rural properties. At 24,000kms I fitted “dunny roll” canister filters. One for in the fuel line for fuel and one, a by pass filter for the engine through a T piece in the pressure line and a return to the sump direct via a hole knocked in the side of the sump. I had the sump oil analysed continuously, approx each 6 months (about 20,000kms) for the rest of the time I had the vehicle. I sold it with 360,000 kms on the clock. The oil analysis was done at Wigmores in Perth who had the Caterpillar franchise for WA back then. All analyses were well within spec. I am no expert about these things, but the reports and my tame mechanic told me so, and I did get to understand them more over time. From the time I fitted the by pass oil filter I never changed the sump oil at all, just left it in there. I changed the dunny roll every 1200-1500kms, took 5 minutes, and added oil back to replace what was lost with the dunny roll, this was between 500ml and a litre, each time I forget now.
To the query you have – “when do I know when to change my dunny roll filter?” It’s easy, pull the dipstick, wipe engine oil on the palm of your hand (about 2 drops) and smear it into your skin, wipe it off with a clean tissue. If your palm is clean the filter is not blocked, if black remains in your pores the filter needs changing. A few times of this and you soon work out when it needs to be changed and dont need to get your hand dirty, except to brag to mates. In my case it was “up to 2000 kms”, but as dunny rolls were only 50 cents each back then I decided to change them earlier. If it ran over for some reason, say up to 3000 kms or more I would then change the dunny roll after a short run, say 500kms, and voila, a clean palm.
After fitting the fuel filter I never replaced the Daihatsu fuel filter again – why would you at $80 a throw versus 50 cents.
This car never burnt oil or had any premature wear at the time of sale. In fact the only things I ever did was replace a bolt on the power steering, and a new radiator due to the rainwater I was using (I lived on a farm) reacting with the radiator as it was caught off a zincalume shed roof. It also stuffed the truck radiator and the old farm 4wd too.
I hope this is of interest to you. I notice the 1HZ we have has very black oil, as did the Rocky, and a Case tractor I had. I haven’t fitted dunny roll filters to the Landcruiser because we are unlikely to do enough kms to wear it out while we have it (we are retired) to tow our Tvan around. More than 160,000kms travelling around Oz is just not going to happen, and also we live in town now and having dirty dunny roll filters to dispose of would be a hassle, plus I now have clean hands and can barely handle the smell of diesel on them nowadays – so things have changed.
I was very interested to note from your work that the OEM filter has the finer filter in it, so that may explain why some 1HZs do a lot of kms before wearing significantly.
Further, my cousin used these filters on his Deutz farm tractors, and had a similar experience. A small fault in one engine had it pulled apart at 5000 hours, and the mechanic couldn’t belive how clean it was inside. My cousin also had a tractor stop through lack of fuel. The issue was water had got into the fuel tank and the dunny roll filter blocked rather than let any water through.
Hope you find this “interesting” Paul
Cheers
David
If you are purchasing a RYCO oil filter for your car you may wish to consider this.
Help, can anyone assist me???
I bought a Ryco R2336PA oil filter element for my vehicle from Coventry Spares and installed it in the canister as I have done many times before on this and other vehicles.
After just 2000km I noticed a change in the engine sound, removed the canister and was surprised to find that the Ryco filter element had fallen to bits in the canister.
This has meant that my oil was not being effectively filtered or may have not been efficiently pumped through the engine and I am now worried that this could lead or has led to internal engine damage.
Both Coventry and Ryco say it is not their problem nor their consern!!!!!
What should I do now?????
I am just an Aussie battler fighting for justice from a large company. Ryco are treating me like I don’t matter. I have been told that they will never accept liability for manufacturing faulty parts.
I am asking for your help to forward this to as many people as you can. If you are on ‘Face Book’ could I ask you to forward this to your ‘Face Book’ friends in the hope they will also pass it on.
I feel sure we would get a response from others who have had the same problem and treatment from Ryco.
If you are unable to help me, by passing this on you will help others.
My Email address kharma@westnet.com.au
8th Oct.2013